Saturday, April 01, 2006

Vahine Island - Trip Report












Vahine Island is much more than a resort, it is an experience. The service at Vahine Island can compete with any of the big 5-star resorts and in many ways they come up on top.

Upon arrival I was greeted with a fresh cloth and a tropical juice. Marie-Laure the manager took the time to show me around the property. You can tell a lot about an hotel by looking at the faces of the employees and I do not exaggerate when I say everyone working there is smiling and all greet you with a warm bonjour or ia orana.

The first thing that absolutely overwhelms me about the resort is the lawn. It may be hard to imagine, but motus are islets within the lagoon and naturally they are wild and overrun with coconut trees and shrubs. The ground typically is filled with many large crab holes. At the finest resorts you will see the motus landscaped with a variety of plants but never have I seen acres of green lawn and that is exactly what you see at Vahine Island. Imagine a coconut plantation covered with golf course quality grass. I asked the about it and apparently the motu always had grass, it has simply been cared for and cultivated over the years and I can tell you the result is stunning. I have been to many motus in my life and the beauty of this motu is exceptional.

The property is 10 acres, yet they only have 9 bungalows. There are 3 Overwater Bungalows, 3 Beach Bungalows and 3 Deluxe Beach Suites. This fact alone is important because there is an intimacy and sense of exclusiveness you feel while at Vahine Island. When you consider at any given time the maximum number of guests is 18, you will begin to understand how they are able to compete on a service level with any of the 5-star resorts. To give you an example of what I am talking about: There is a friendly Tahitian named Toromona at Vahine Island. He is in charge of activities and he gives new meaning to the term activities director. He is not there to simply tell you where the good snorkeling is, he is there to show you. Want someone to take you out on the pirogue do do some fishing? Toromona is your man. Want to learn about coconuts, drink their juice and eat their fresh meat? Well Teramona will grab his machete and serve it up fresh.

Vahine Island exhibits a charm & style of old world Polynesia. It is the real deal. The bungalows are made with local materials. No marble baths here. Yet it is the simplicity of local Tahitian style that is such a huge part of the charm. Think Robinson Crusoe with really comfortable and spacious bungalows, a 5-star chef and a staff whose sole purpose is to make sure you enjoy yourselves. Vahine Island hasn’t been sanitized by modernity. The have mastered a lovely balance that involves a unique Tahitian escape, with fine dining and a few key modern conveniences such as telephone, internet & TV should you want it. And how much detail shall I go into about the food?! From the homemade vanilla yogurt, to the tuna tartare with lemon cream sauce and the delectable profiteroles, the cuisine is exceptional. In addition, the intimate open air restaurant looks out to the turquoise lagoon with the view of Tahaa beyond that. The setting is simply sublime.

I am writing this from my beach suite bungalow with a picture perfect view of Bora Bora in the distance . They call this a Deluxe Beach Suite but I am literally right at the water’s edge. I can jump from my deck into the water with no problem. To my left is a little sand drift within the lagoon. On it sits two lounge chairs. It looks like a little oasis unto itself. To my right is the reef. I can see & hear the crashing of the ocean waves. Behind me is the lush green lawn covered with coconut trees. The bungalow is so spacious. It’s a pity I left James, Fiona & Dushan at home as this bungalow is definitely big enough for the 4 of us and what fun we would have had here.

I slept last night will all the windows and doors open. I was soothed to sleep by the breeze of the trade winds and the crash of the surf in the distance. I woke up so happy to be here and yet so sad I to know I must leave today.

Vahine Island may not be for everyone. There is no a/c and I know that’s important to a lot of people, especially Americans but I speak the truth when I tell you it absolutely was not needed and yesterday was hot, very hot. During the day, I turned on the ceiling fan. Combined with the trade winds, it was more than enough.

Many people are under the impression that Le Taha’a Private Island & Spa is the ONLY hotel in Tahaa. Not true. And the unfortunate thing is, those people who can’t afford Le Taha’a often end up passing on the island entirely. I’m here to say, that is a mistake. There is a wonderful alternative. It is an absolutely incredible place and it is called Vahine Island. Vahine means woman in Tahitian and for now, I will carry her in my heart. I look forward to the day I can return...

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